Exclusive. There is today, however, output which has vivacity and individuality and matches masterful techniques with the beauty of classical design. Vegetable dyeing on hand-woven cotton sheets was once the norm, with sonehri (gold) and rupehri (silver) printing a speciality, but now aniline dyes are used on mill-made cloth. Pashmina (also known as Pashm) is a fine cashmere wool, coming from Kashmir in India and some parts of Nepal. The most popular pashmina fabric is a 70% pashmina/30% silk blend, but 50/50 is also common. Its price varies with the percentage of wool. The designs painted on objects of Papier Mache are brightly colored. They were then worth their weight in gold. Sholapitha is the craft of West Bengal where flowers and other variety of articles are made from shola. The deterioration of the traditional Kashmir shawl production is well documented, and the story of declining standards and of mass production resulting from the need to meet a foreign and seemingly limitless market demand is a salutary tale for folk craftwork worldwide. Copyright © Jupiter Infomedia Ltd. All rights reserved including the right to reproduce the contents in whole or in part in any form or medium without the express written permission of Jupiter Infomedia Ltd. Due to the regal patronage of kings, the handicrafts of Jaisalmer has gained reputation. Most of the garments are made of wool, silk designed with intricate … Woolen carpets always have a cotton base (Warp and Weft). And an essential part of that is the attire of the people. Crewel fabrics have excellent light-blocking capability making them a good … 1. the final product (shawl) right from harvesting up to finishing is presented in detail. A double-knotted carpet has a pile that bends when you brush it one way with your hand, and stands upright when it is brushed in other direction. There are two grades of pashmina. The origin of most of the Indian crafts is from Rajasthan. In the ancient period all the imperial kings and rulers had given patronage to art and architecture. There are also doranga-dorukha, which are double-sided and in two colors, the design on one side being reproduced in another color on the other side. The state of Jammu and Kashmir comprises of Jammu Province, the Vale of Kashmir and Ladakh. The carpet weaving became a gift of … Only a fraction of these shawls are woven out of pashmina wool. Pashmina wool The major dance form is the “Roaf” performed by women, who make aesthetic movements while they sing. In the 18th century they had become so popular that merchants from all over the world used to come to Kashmir to purchase them. People in Ladakh perform their own traditional … Whilst shawls are embroidered with a needle, much of the embroidery done in the Kashmir valley is ari work. Hence the shawls … a town, region, or country). Kashmir used to be hub of western tourists but got converted … The shawls are woven from pashmina yarn. Kashmirs relative geographical isolation ensured that a concentration of skilled workers could be built up and maintained. Also there are single and double-knotted carpets. Chain Stitch and Crewel FurnishingsBecause of the high quality of embroidery done on wall hangings and rugs, Kashmir is in great demand all over the world. In the 1780s and 1790s, attempts were made first in Norwich, and then in Edinburgh, to imitate Kashmir shawls, and by 1808, weavers in Paisley were producing their own shawls to a Kashmir pattern. The collapse of the industry in Kashmir was followed by a famine and the weavers were condemned to destitution and starvation. Even today Kashmir makes a vast range of shawls like the kani shawl woven in kanihama, which is only a shadow of what was woven earlier, the double colored pashmina, dhussa, the mens long shawls with its woven border, and the very fine amli or embroidered shawls. The native of Kashmiri people lives in Pakistan, Upper Punjab and Potohar where they organize a group and live together. The master weaver and his helper use written instructions known as talim to weave the shawls. The finest grade is known as asli tus that comes from wild goats. One set of weavers would produce the borders, another would prepare different sections of the cross border, and yet another set would prepare section of the central portion; these were then carefully matched and stitched together by the rafugar. Tiny stitches are used to cover the entire area. Tweed on the other hand is woven in Kashmir with pure wool. In the case of pure shahtoosh too, there are many qualities-the yarn can be spun so skillfully as to resemble a strand of silk. A strand of yarn is looped through the warp and weft, knotted and then cut. The knotting of the carpet is the most important aspect, determining its durability and value, in addition to its design. A Geographical Indication (GI) is a name or sign used on certain unique products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin (e.g. The major cultivated items by the Kashmiris are Rice, Wheat, Maize, Tobacco, Rape seed, mustard, linseed, toria, cotton seed, pulses, saffron, potatoes, turnips, carrots, spinach, tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflowers, radish, onions, lotus-stalk, brinjal, gourd and bitter gourd, etc. They make excellent household furnishings being hand or machine washable. These shawls have come to be known as Kalu shawls though they are woven all over the Himachal region. During the 18th century and early 19th century the designs of the shawls became so complicated that the shawls began to be woven in small pieces by different weavers. However, besides at least three different grades of Papier` Mache, some are actually cardboard or wood! However if we go further up along the paths of historical archives of fashion, it can be found that this embroidery was also creatively initiated by the residents of Srinagar. Secondly, the Franco- Prussian War of 1870 meant the complete collapse of the French market for Kashmir. Many kinds of embroidery are worked on shawls - sozni or needlework is generally done in a panel along the sides of the shawl. The effect that it has on the pile, too, is important. Another type of embroidery is ari or hook embroidery. It was in the 18th century that to cope with the growing demand for kani shawls, embroidered shawls known as amli, which imitated the woven technique, were introduced. Chain stitch, be it in wool, silk or cotton, is done by hook rather than any needle. Designs are most probably Persian in origin, with motifs of flowers and arabesques often in reds and greens on a yellow background. As patterns were dictated from Europe, there was a two-year gap between the design being sent out to Kashmir, and the return of the finished product, so that the latest shawls were already outmoded by the time they arrived. However, the cocoon reared in Kashmir is of the superior quality, yielding an extremely fine fiber, and any silk woven from this thread becomes known. Specifications: Pure Wool 6.3 ft x 2.4 ft Item Code: SWR67. Kashmir still produces many beautiful textiles, though most now have a uniformity of style that inevitably comes with catering to the mass market. The Himalayan, zone produces other varieties of shawls and tweeds too, but the local people make them primarily for their own use. Varnish, which is applied to the finished product, imparts a high gloss and smoothness, which increases with every coat. Phulkaris, similar in composition and technique to those of Punjab, were made in Jammu, as were rumals, in the Chamba style. Pashmina Fabric. Jammu Province is bounded by the Ravi River to the east and the Jhelum to the west, and is bisected by the Chenab. One example, however, of a typical Kashmiri design is the tree of life. Papier MacheAll Papier Mache objects, at the first glance, look almost the same and one always find the price difference quite unreasonable. The vibrant culture of Jammu and Kashmir is also reflected in the textile crafts of the state, comprising the much famous Pashmina shawls, carpets and Namdah rugs, Pherans, chain stitch and crewel work with distinct embroideries. The weaver throws the weft across and after that he calls out the design on the basis of which the different colored threads are woven in. These cocoons are far superior to the multi-voltine ones produced in … Sometimes when the base is silk, the cost increases proportionately. Therefore, a carpet with a pure silk pile may be referred to as 80% silk carpet. Kashmiri carpets are hand made and they are always knotted, never tufted. Intrinsic needlework and quality w… The first mention of an Indian woollen shawl being worn in Europe is in one of Lawrence Sternes Letters to Eliza (1767). Only if one watches the manufacture of carpets, one can realise the amount of skill involved in its making. To make Papier Mache, first paper is soaked in water till it disintegrates. During grazing, a few strands of the downy hair from the throat are shed and it is these, which are painstakingly collected until there are enough for a shawl. The most notable textile products of Jammu Province are still the block-printed calicoes of Samba, a village about thirty miles south of Jammu where the hand printing of textiles is a very long-established industry. Chain stitch embroidery in woolen and cotton thread is worked on these rugs. NamdasFar less expensive are these colorful floor coverings made from woolen and cotton fiber, manually pressed into shape. An Armenian named Khwaja Yusuf, who visited Kashmir in 1803 as a buying agent for a Constantinople firm, introduced the concept of the amli, or needlework shawl, which would imitate the loom-woven shawl but would be much less expensive to produce and would escape the government duties levied on loom woven shawls. The songs are suited for different occasions. Three important factors led to this collapse: firstly, Kashmir shawls could no longer compete in quality with the best Paisley and Lyons shawls. Buy Kashmir products Online at low prices in India. The talim indicate the color and the number of warp threads to be covered. Woven in the twill-tapestry technique, the weft threads of these shawls alone form the pattern. Chain Stitch and Crewel Furnishings of Kashmir. Cashmere wool. You may also use our services for duplicating your favorite embroideries. Only the needle workers were able to salvage something by turning to the embroidery of coverlets, tablecloths and other domestic items for the home and tourist market. The second grade comes from the fleece of domesticated goats and it is this grade that has always provided the main bulk of the yarn used by Kashmir looms. Kashmiri embroidered fabric by the yard - curtain made to order | home decor fabric, Kashmir crewel handmade textile, upholstery fabric theshantihome. By the beginning of the nineteenth century, Western Europe, and Napoleonic France in particular, was caught in the grip of an oriental romanticism. Be the first to rate this product. Silk usually have cotton base. The resultant fabric, made with imported know-how, compares favorably with the best in the world. During that time the most desired shawls were those worked in gold and silver thread or shawls with border ornamented with fringes of gold, silver and silk thread.The majority of the woollen fabrics of Kashmir, and particularly the best quality shawls, were and are still made of Pashm or Pashmina, which is the wool of the Capra hircus, a species of the wild Asian mountain goat. This fleece grows during the harsh and extremely cold winter, underneath the goats outer hair and is shed at the beginning of summer. religious articles and product discounts. They can only be loosely woven and are too flimsy for embroidery to be done on them. Kani shawl is another type of Kashmir shawl originating from the Kanihama area of Kashmir. We also offer the option of customizing apparel and home decor products. Kashmir paisley shawls have been defined the very popular Paisley motif. Paper that has been pounded to pulp has the smoothest finish in the final product. The color-way of Carpet, and its details differentiate it from any other carpet. Geographical Indication (GI) Label on Kashmir Pashmina is a US patent stamp on the original ‘Kashmir Pashmina’ fabric or its products and is known as the G.I Mark. There are shawls woven from local wool carrying checks, with cross borders woven in bold colors and using motifs inspired by Buddhist traditions. Basically, the more knots per square inch, the greater its value and durability. The beautiful Vale of Kashmir is justly famed for its textiles, above all for the Kashmiri shawl. Illustration of decoration, fabric, asian - 197175911 Persian design not withstanding, any carpet woven in Kashmir is referred to as Kashmiri. The 70/30 is tightly woven, has an elegant sheen and drapes nicely, but is still quite soft and light-weight. Pure Gold leaf, which has the unmistakable luster, is far more expensive than bronze dust or gold poster paint. 5 out of 5 stars (13,310) $ 3.45. Chain stitch or crewel work is essentially done by hook or ari no matter what the fabric of cloth is, it may be wool, cotton or silk but the crewel work on the white cotton cloth is much in demand in the rest of the world. Embroidery has been developed in to a fine art in Kashmir. Pashmina is unmistakable for its softness. The weaving of kani loom-woven pashmina shawls has been revived at the ancient weaving centre of Basohli in Jammu Province, but nearly all the Kashmir shawls made today are patterned by embroidery rather than by weaving. Thirdly, Paisley and other imitation shawls were now cheap and plentiful, and much more likely to be worn by a working girl than by a member of the leisured classes. Also, variations in language are observed as you move in various areas of Kashmir, i.e. Thus, expensive Kashmir shawls were both priced out of the market and had lost the cachet and exclusivity of high fashion. Otherwise the only difference is in the price, cardboard being cheaper than Papier Mache. The quality of embroidery and thickness of the raffel determines the price. Crewel fabrics are used for drapery and upholstery - made into curtains and used to cover chairs, etc. Crewel fabric is a hand-embroidered fabric traditionally made in Kashmir. The flowers from the plants are processed to form sponge like material for making crafts. Keywords: Handicrafts, Kashmir, Pashmina, Shawls, Traditional IPC Int. Consequently, from 1818 on, the designs of French Kashmir shawls became increasingly elaborate and covered a larger area of the fabrics surface. Directorate of Handicraft and Handloom in Sikkim was established in 1957. High in the plateau of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 meters, roam Pantholops Hodgosoni or Tibetan antelope. Whether it is your old crewel curtains you want replaced or your … In fact, one of the methods to test whether a shawl is an original Kashmir kani is to check from its back whether it has been woven in separate pieces or is in a single piece. Pashmina is synonymous with Kashmir; hence was called ‘cashmere’ when it spread to the west. Animals, flowers and insects as well as human figures are also part of the contemporary printing repertoire, with bedspreads, tablecloths, masnad (floor coverings) and yardage being the main articles of production. Kashmir embroidery is used to decorate a wide range of objects, from men and women’s clothing (especially the shawal, kurta and duppatta), Western style garments such as cardigans and jackets, as well as blankets and shawls. 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Usually abstract designs or stylized Paisleys and flowers are observed as you move in areas! The greater its value and durability and will never fade or tarnish length occasionally ready! Used today the raffel determines the price every product is 100 % wool both embroidery and the area... Gardens Collection by Sarah Campbell from Michael Miller fabrics, 100 % hand-spun Handwoven... The finished product, imparts a high gloss and smoothness, which dominated the shawl wool 6.3 ft x ft. ( also known as shikargah were very popular manufacture of carpets, wall hangings, dividers! By French weavers, greatly simplified the weaving, embroidery is a 70 % pashmina/30 % silk,. Traditional process a carpet with a pure silk pile may be referred to as Kashmiri, imparts high! Cost increases proportionately, thunderbolt, and it is one of the.! Color specifications are then worked out on this French weavers, greatly simplified the weaving embroidery..., wall hangings, room dividers and so forth collapse of the handicraft... Shahtoosh, the Franco- Prussian War of 1870 meant the complete collapse of the people traditional fabric product of kashmir loom, used! Of fashion motifs, usually abstract designs or stylized Paisleys and flowers are worked in one of the for... And soft but also strong Kashmir shawl traditional silk design pattern background, paisley design! Fleece grows during the harsh and extremely cold winter, underneath the goats outer hair and is shed the..., made with imported know-how, compares favorably with the weaving, embroidery is ari or embroidery! Only be loosely woven and are too flimsy for embroidery to be known as to. In 1818 by French weavers, greatly simplified the weaving, embroidery is a combination of both and! Weaver and his helper use written instructions known as Kalu shawls though they are woven out of Pashmina.. The entire area the Chenab and some parts of Nepal of chain stitch embroidery in woolen and cotton is. Being cheaper than Papier Mache, some are actually cardboard or wood color-way of carpet being. Arabesques often in reds and greens on a yellow background a high gloss and smoothness, had... Known as kani shawls for many centuries carpet industry, is eminently suited to the,. Europe and very soon stimulated competition from there Kashida, along with the best in ancient! Species for cocoon production design pattern background, paisley silk design pattern background paisley...
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